Photographs from Coimbra

It’s always interesting arriving somewhere completely new, especially when you don’t know much about it. For the more popular destinations, information is everywhere, and chances are someone you know has already been there. Places like that rarely feel like a mystery.

Coimbra was different. I knew almost nothing about it beyond the fact that it’s a university town. It came up while I was searching for places to stop between Lisbon and Porto, and it seemed easy enough to reach, a couple of hours on a direct train. My Airbnb was within walking distance of the station, though there’s also a free bus that runs into town.

For this part of the trip, I kept things simple. I had my accommodation booked and left the rest open. Most of my time was spent walking, taking different routes, climbing the steep streets, and slowly working my way uphill. I put most of my time in the late afternoon, and in the morning, as the days got extremely hot, more so than in Lisbon prior. It reminded me of Lisbon in that sense, but Coimbra also felt noticeably quieter. There’s more space to move, and you’re not constantly weaving through crowds.

It’s a beautiful place, especially when you step back and take it in from across the Mondego River.

With not much of a plan, the photography I had in mind here was vague. I was going to see what presented itself to me. Fortunately, those days were clear, and the blue sky with the colourful facades of Coimbra made for some great opportunities.

Here are a few from my time in Coimbra and what I like most about them:

Photo 1 - Science Museum of the University of Coimbra

On my first night in Coimbra, I stumbled upon the Science Museum nestled in the historic university quarter. Without much direction, I wandered through the quiet streets, simply following the fading light through alleys and up hills as it lowered in the sky. The atmosphere was surprisingly still, a contrast to packed Lisbon, where I’d arrived from earlier that day. I later discovered the emptiness was partly due to it being Portugal Day, a national holiday that fell on June 10th.

This photograph captures something I deeply love about spontaneous travel moments. First, the warm evening light casts a golden glow over the entire scene. Second, the solitary figure on a scooter near the center of the road adds a touch of human presence, and finally, the vast openness and desolation. While I imagine this location buzzes with activity on other days, that night, I had the entire historic quarter essentially to myself.

Photo 2 - Stairs and Shadow

This wasn’t my first night in Coimbra. The day before, I had already made my way up these stairs and the ones that followed. But that first night, while wandering, I noticed how the light was beginning to spill into the stairway. It wasn’t quite right yet, so I made a mental note to come back.

When I returned, I started shooting from near the doorway, aiming up the stairs. Nothing was really clicking. So I stepped outside into the shade, and that’s when I noticed it: the shadows. As people walked down toward me, their silhouettes stretched perfectly into the light.

I waited maybe 30 seconds for two people to walk into position, and that was the shot. The only illuminated area was exactly where their shadows landed, placing them right where they needed to be. Even the light fixture adds to the scene. It’s a reminder that sometimes the best shots come from stepping back, resetting, and seeing the scene from a different angle.

Photo 3 - Vendor

This was one of the quickest compositions I captured. I remember thinking, “Oh damn,” the moment I saw the vendor tending to his cart. I knew the scene could fall apart at any second. He could move, shift his position, or step out from behind the cart entirely. And I didn’t want to lose that silhouette. The way he was positioned felt perfect.

I didn’t have time to move in closer, but honestly, I’m glad I didn’t. The distance, combined with the 23mm lens, helped give the scene a real sense of scale.

What I love most is how unexpected it was. The street was almost empty that night, and then suddenly, just around the corner, there he was, like the scene had been waiting to be captured.

Photo 4 - Fence

What’s so special about this photo? Nothing on its own, but it’s the combination of elements that makes it work. An open fence door isn’t much by itself, but the more I look at this shot, the more I’m drawn to it.

The fence sits almost dead center in the frame, but because it’s open, it creates this sense of invitation, like it’s pulling you in to see what’s just around the corner.

The timing helps too. The shadow coming in from the right emphasizes the fence without detracting from the rest of the scene. Then you’ve got the contrast between the vibrant trees and the weathered surface of the fence. It’s a good example of how a few individually simple elements can come together to create a strong composition.

Photo 5 - University of Coimbra

This famed University of Coimbra is the oldest in Portugal. The grounds are incredible, and the few people there were well-suited to my time in this area. That ended up working perfectly, and I’ll get into why with the next photo.

I remember walking up to this area the night I arrived. The university’s palace gate was right in front of me, but for whatever reason, I didn’t go through. Not sure why, I just didn’t. I think a part of me didn’t know what was beyond the gate. My day was packed, and I was ready to call it a night. So I set an alarm for sunrise the next morning to explore before the heat kicked in, and when I came back, this was the scene waiting for me.

The space feels open and calm, and the architecture really speaks for itself. And then there’s the light; warm, soft, and exactly what you hope for in the early morning.

It’s a simple photo, but I think it comes together really well. The leaves fill the frame just enough without distracting. They fill the gap at the top right. The light hits the facade perfectly. You can even trace the sun’s position by the way the shadow cuts across the stairs.

Photo 6 - Statue of King João III

This statue sits on the same grounds as the university. In fact, if you look to the left of the previous photo, you can see it. I took this about 10 minutes later. As I mentioned before, having so few people around actually worked in my favour, since those who did pass through could be used for composition and scale.

These two walked into the frame and paused to take in the statue. They stood there for a few seconds before moving on, which gave me just enough time to capture the moment. They help give the statue a sense of scale, but what really makes it for me is that one of them turned and looked directly at me, maybe wondering what I was doing, or maybe just taking in the university; I’m not sure.

Conclusion

Coimbra ended up being one of the biggest surprises of the trip. I came in not knowing much about the city at all, and I didn’t have much of a plan beyond just showing up and exploring. I had no real itinerary, no must-see checklist, just time to wander and see what unfolded.

And that’s exactly why it worked so well.

It wasn’t a place that hit me all at once. Instead, Coimbra slowly revealed itself over time. With the quiet streets and layered architecture, it was one of those places where the more I walked, the more I started to notice. The pace helped too. It felt slower than some of the other cities, which gave me the space to actually take things in and be present with what I was seeing.

And then there was the light. I couldn’t have asked for better conditions; clear skies, warm tones, and that soft golden light that seemed to hang just long enough in the mornings and evenings. It added another layer to everything, making even simple scenes feel a bit more special.

Looking back, Coimbra was a reminder that sometimes the places you plan the least for end up leaving the strongest impression.