Discovering Croatia: Photographs from Zagreb

My trip to Zagreb was one of the most spontaneous location decisions I have made when planning travel. I do not know anyone personally who has even been to the city. I didn’t conduct much research before choosing it, nor did I do much in the period between booking and arriving in Zagreb. I’m never one to plan extensively, especially when travelling solo, but I do want to have my accommodations booked well in advance and have a general idea of the areas I’ll be exploring. For the most part, I like to take things at my own pace. However, there is usually a central location that is a must-see, an area that you’ve seen many times prior in photos. Zagreb has the lower town, which seems to be the central point of the city, and I made sure to book a place to stay that was close to there. The few spots I added to my Google Map were within close walking distance, and I expected these places to be a good source of street photography and attractive sites in Zagreb.

My Airbnb host was gracious enough to pick me up from the airport. How great is that! During my drive, I learned a bit about the area, its main attractions, the closest market, and the best pizza place. I also learned about the earthquake that occurred in 2020. It was the strongest in Zagreb since the one that occurred in 1880. In total, close to 2,000 buildings were damaged. That was just over five years ago, and undertaking such a repair can take a substantial amount of time. As a result, many buildings remain under repair, with sheeting covering their exteriors. Some evidence of damage can be seen in these buildings, with portions of the exterior having fallen off, revealing the brick underneath. Today, Zagreb is still under heavy reconstruction, and the Zagreb Cathedral is being restored to protect against future earthquakes. The cathedral has been closed for over five years since the earthquake.

I had three days in the city, exploring the streets while also taking advantage of the time of day. Although I started my day around midday, which was not ideal, I made sure to retreat to my Airbnb for some rest before continuing the journey later in the day, when the light improved. Here are some photos from my time in Zagreb.

Photo 1 - St. Francis of Assisi Church

The photo above features this church, a prominent fixture in the area. Since this area is directly by the Zagreb Cathedral, it’s a popular spot for people to gather. It’s never really overwhelmed, but the cathedral is one of the top things to see in Zagreb. It was damaged during the 2020 earthquake and, as a result, remains under heavy reconstruction.

The view above, I find, is a good establishing shot of Zagreb, as anyone who has been there will recognize it. Anyone who plans to visit at some point will inevitably end up here with all probability. It’s always exciting to find the impromptu, chance photos at just the right time, like the one above, but I find that having recognizable landmarks is key to grounding a body of work, giving it recognition.

Photo 2 - Tree Shadow

As I walked along this street, I came across this scene, and what attracted me most was how the shadow of a tree seemed to emanate from the door. The warm, earthy tones of the roof tiles and window frames contrast nicely with the blue of the sky, creating a dynamic effect.

Since the sun was low and the light was essentially horizontal, I decided to wait. People were walking along the street, and I knew that if someone walked into the frame, their shadow would add some additional visual impact.

For me, this image is an example of how even the most ordinary places can be transformed through light, timing, and a little patience. It’s also an example that timing is everything, as this scene would have lasted maybe 10 minutes before the light shifted and the shadow overtook the bottom of the frame, or shifted too far to the right. That’s part of the great thing about travel photography. What are the odds I was in this exact spot at this time and was able to capture this?

Photo 3 - Stairs to the Dolac Market

The Dolac Market in Zagreb is the city’s primary open-air farmers’ market, located just above Ban Jelačić Square. At this time of the evening, the market was long closed, but the area above is still open, where many people cross through on their travels. At this particular time, when the sun was lower and the light was getting really good, the light hit just the top of the adjacent building and the sign above, while creating silhouettes of people at the top of the stairs to the right of the frame.

It’s difficult to see here, but along with the man’s silhouette on the stairs, there is also a silhouette of a pigeon on top of the sign. Overall, I enjoy the simplicity and the splash of light in this photo.

Photo 4 - Volkswagen

During my time in Zagreb, I often found myself wandering off the main streets into the back alleys and pathways. This was one of those times. Along the main streets of Ilica, there was a pathway into a parking area. I stumbled upon some parked cars, one of which was this older Volkswagen. Exploring back streets during travels often leads to surprising photo opportunities. There is no way you can anticipate what subjects will be presented. I enjoyed the combination of an older car along in this area, with the grass growing through the cracks and crevices of the cement.

Photo 5 - Reflection at Dolac Market

Concluding my day out, I was on my way back to the Airbnb and walked up through the area where the Dolac Market is bustling during the day. Now, as evening fell, every vendor had packed up and left, leaving behind empty tables, scattered produce boxes, and other remnants typical of a farmer’s market. Despite the market being deserted, the soft, fading light hit the facade of the opposite building. The golden hour cast a warm, glowing hue over the scene.

As I stood beside one particular booth, whose exact purpose was a mystery to me, I noticed the reflected building. Something interesting was how this simple, empty scene was transformed into one with visual interest.

Conclusion

Zagreb was an interesting location to visit. The convenience of the flight from Amsterdam led me to choose Zagreb as my first stop in Croatia, and I’m glad I did. Even though it doesn’t have immensely popular landmarks and must-sees, it’s a pleasurable city to explore at your own pace. With reduced crowds compared to other locations, it’s manageable, and it’s also quite affordable to stay there.

Croatia is a country I’m looking forward to further exploring, and I’m glad I had the opportunity to visit a place with which I had minimal information. Sometimes it’s great to arrive somewhere and discover at your own pace without preconceived expectations.